to cut the pattern on the fabric

cutting advices

Pattern laying
Cut your fabric

On the basic pattern,it is important to be precise:
1 - The vertical lines"Grain line" and the middle ones
2 - The horizontal lines of :

- shoulder width, bust, waist, hips.
All the patterns are symmetrical that is why half of them can be made.
Except the sleeves patterns, the draped and the asymmetrical buttonholes.
The seams, hems, facings, do not take standard pattern sizes.
You must add them before cutting the fabric :
Neck measurement: 1 cm or 0,40 inch
Shoulders : 2 cm or 0,80 inch
Armhole : 2 cm or 0,80 inch
Blouse size :
waist redonded : 3 to 4 cm or 1,20 to 1,60 inch
Cut-out : 2 cm or 0,80 inch
Size skirt : 2 cm or 0,80 inch
Side seam : 2 to 3 cm

or 0,80 to 1,20 inch
Skirt hem : 5 to 7 cm or 2 to 2,80 inches
Sleeve hem : 3 to 4 cm or 1,20 to 1,60 inch
Sleeve seam : 2 cm or 0,80 inch
Pattern layout on the fabric

Once the pattern are cut in two, all the pieces must be in double
(exept in an asymetrical garment).
You can pin the fabric on the table, to keep it flat.
Double up the fabric right side to right side, selvage to selvage, the selvage turnned to you, the boder of the table...
If the fabric has a rising sense, point it on the wrong side by arrows with a piece of chalk.
Layout the pieces of pattern which do not have seam, on the middle : on the fabric pleat.
The collars, facings, wrist, belts will be "reserved" and cut only after the fitting.
As the patterns are made without seam, you must forsee an adequate space between each part.
Pin carefully all the pattern pieces.
Trace with precision the seams values with the tailor chalk.
The scissors must carefully follow those lines.
Do not tear the fabric while cutting, but layout it on the table.
Layout all the pattern peaces and pin on the fabric in order to pass the stitches.
The special fabric
The nap fabrics are used pile down.
- Used pile up, it is more luminous but more fragile (smart clothes)
- Used pile down, it is duller but not so fragile
(trousers, sportswear, children's clothes)
Stripped and squared fabric
For these fabrics, the folding must be more meticulous, small squares and stripes must perfectly coincide.
When you place the pattern, the back and front middle without seams, or buttonhole must be laid on half-stripe, ahalf square and a half design.
For pleated skirts, you must study the check before deciding the width pleats.
Horizontal small squares and stripes are not successful for bell skirt,
Cut grain line middle back and front.